Seeing the Light: Classical Perfection in Suburbia

The first thing that strikes the eye about Sandycoombe Lodge (40 Sandycoombe Road, Twickenham) is its modernity, the curve-edged bulwarks or wings that anchor the taller, central section of the villa to the landscape. It could, in fact, have emerged from the art deco age. It is the classical symmetry of the villa that nudges the visitor into remembering that it is c. 200 years old: no crumbling concrete here. The classicism is evident in the hall way and the stunning, sky-lighted staircase. Designed by JMW Turner himself, it is as if the late, great artist has created his own architectural tribute to himself. Indoors, nods to modernity and technology include the installation of electricity and a functioning bathroom. Otherwise, the lodge has been restored to an early nineteenth-century aesthetic. But twee it is not and the lodge is gloriously free of heritage tat. The dining room is a paean to classical simplicity: I can imagine sitting down and eating here. One item of modernity is a semi-hidden key that activates a sound-track of an historical gathering. A similar device in the basement kitchen activates the “ghost” of John Turner, father of the late artist. The narrow staircase to the basement and upper rooms render it a little precarious to those with disabilities. But if you can, do. Upstairs, one bedroom has been restored to former, simple glory while the other room is outfitted for exhibitions. On at present is Seeing the Light, a display of watercolours of European attractions, made by the artist following the end of the Napoleonic wars when the Continent was finally opened up to travellers. All rooms field stunning views of the district, and visitors may also sit in the garden. No eating/drinking facilities here but the guide kindly directed us to the grounds of Marble Hill House, just a walk away. At present, Turner’s house is open Wednesday to Sunday, 12 noon to 4 pm until October 29. Visit turnershouse.org/whats-on/ for news of exhibitions, talk and workshops. Guided tours available, bookable in advance.